How To Buy A Used Knitting Machine - Gauge and Parts
Our mission is specific. We want a knitting machine good enough to get the job done, yet cheap enough that we can bail if we don’t like it. We are looking for a machine with acceptable downside risk.
My focus today will be on Japanese metal bed knitting machines. I only recently got a Passap and will need more time with it before I can comment. The plastic bed Bond works for many but not for me.
So… lets begin.
Info: Gauge
Knitting machines have lots of parts. Some are essential and brand specific. Others are interchangeable between the same gauge machine. Still other parts can be used on all machines, regardless of brand or gauge.
Common Japanese knitting machines are:
Brother/Knitking
Studio/Singer/Silver Reed
Toyota
The name was dependent on which part of the world it was marketed. For example, Brother and Knitking are the same and their parts are completely interchangeable between like machines.
My favorite resource for making sense of all the models made in the last 40+ years is the Chart History of Knitting Machines. I keep it handy so when I come across an ad I’ll know exactly when the machine was made and what gauge it is.
Frequently I find sellers have no clue about their knitting machine and make “best guesses” to my questions.
Knitting Machines are grouped by gauge, the distance between the needles on the bed. Standard gauge machines are4.5 mm, mid gauge machines are6.5 to 8 mm, and bulky machines are 9 mm. Finer gauge machines have smaller hooks for lace weight yarn, bulky machines have larger hooks to handle worsted weight and bulky yarns.
Pictured at right are three different gauge machines.
Starting at the top is a standard gauge, mid gauge, and then bulky.
If you count the number of needles in 9 cm, you have about 21, 15, and 11.
Plenty of sites discuss the merits of each gauge and the yarns they can accommodate. I’ve linked some of these articles on my Links page.
When you are paying over $1500 for a new machine, making a gauge decision is critical. When you are paying significantly less for a used machine, you take what you can get and say thank you very much.
Info: Parts
Brand specific - hard/costly to find replacements
- needle bed and carrying case lid - this is the actual machine
- carriage
- sinker plate assembly (Brother/Knitking) or arm (Studio/Singer/Silver Reed)
- row counter (if not built in, frequently a snap on part in accessory box)
Brand specific - easy to find replacements
- needles
- sponge bar (it is as long as the needle bed and installed under the needles)
Brand/not gauge specific - ease to find replacements unknown
- yarn tension unit (Brother/Knitking)
- auto tension and yarn rod (Studio/Singer/Silver Reed)
- table clamps to secure machine to the working surface
- electrical cord (if an electronic machine)
Gauge specific but not brand loyal - easy to find replacements
- transfer tools
- needle pusher tools
- latch tool
- cast on combs
Use on any brand/gauge machine - easy to find replacements
- oil
- ravel cord
- weight hangers
- assorted weights
If I come across a machine cheap at a garage sale and I want it to have enough parts to work, I need the machine and lid, at least 75% of its needles, carriage, sinker plate assembly, row counter, and a yarn tension unit. If it has a cast on comb, miscellaneous transfer tools or other stuff, I consider it gravy, pay the person, and smile all the way to my car.
Bent or missing needles are ok because they are relatively cheap and easy to replace. Same holds true for missing transfer tools, cast on combs, or weights. A cracked lid is a cosmetic problem, not a functional issue. No manual is a bummer, but many Brother manuals can be downloaded for free. Studio is more difficult. You may have to resort to eBay for a book.
Remember, this machine is cheap. If you decide you enjoy machine knitting you can always sell it online or through a local craigslist ad and trade up to a nicer model.
Now that you have a better idea of which parts are essential and which parts are easily replaced, go find a machine! Despite their quirks, they are a lot of fun.
Don’t miss a post! Get free email updates or grab the feed.
Related Posts
November 16, 2006
5 comments
Just wanted to say thanks for this great post! I posted it on Utah Fiber Farmers Yahoo group today, too. It was really helpful to have all the manuals linked in one place and I loved seeing your article on How to Buy a Used Machine. I’ve had so many questions from people on the yahoo group–I’ll send them here next time.
I am looking to buy a Brother Model #KH 587 How old is that model and what should I expect to pay for it?The owner bought it in Japan
Hello,
I have a Brothers Bulky KH-260 and the Ribber. Where could
I get a list of everything that was made for this machine? I have a very small piece that I need to get replaced. It is the small pink circular inset that goes in the center of my tension dial. Plus I am short a wire - loop weight hanger.
I am trying to get everything that I can for this machine before it is to late to find. Thank you for your time.
Looking for information on a singer mid gauge with 120 needles. Does it have a sponge bar in a metal bar that slides in or does it take just a strip of foam that lays in? Also can you buy them anywhere? Are they a different length than other sponge bars?
Thank you in advance - Emily
We have several Silver Reed knitting machines from about 30 years ago stored in our basement. They seem to be mostly dusty and we think we have all the parts. A review of the three major items have the following names: Silver-Reed SR-120 bulky rib-Knitter; Studio SRP-50; and Silver Reed SK 120 Kantn Buckly; plus all sorts of other stuff associated with these machines.
We would like to sell “as is” for doing knitting or just parts. Do you have any suggestions on how or where we could do this in the Denver, Colorado metro area. Any thoughts if we should just trash or is there some value here?
Thanks for your help,
Steve and Stella
Leave a Comment